Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws "xav" ntawm daim tawv nqaij laus yog dryness, uas yog manifested los ntawm tsis muaj noo noo cov ntsiab lus thiab tsis muaj peev xwm khaws noo noo. Cov tawv nqaij ua crunchy, ntxhib thiab flakes. Ib qho tshuaj hygroscopic heev rau lub hom phiaj ntawm kev ntxiv cov tawv nqaij noo noo thiab tiv thaiv dryness yog hu ua humectant. Cov tawv nqaij moisturizing mechanism, ib qho yog noo noo nqus; Lwm qhov yog txheej thaiv txheej (defense txheej) uas tiv thaiv cov dej hauv sab hauv los ntawm kev tawg. Kev nkag mus ntawm noo noo ntawm txheej txheej txheej thaum nws muaj nuj nqi yog 2.9g / (m2 h-1) ± 1.9g / (m2 h-1), thiab thaum nws ploj tag, nws yog 229g / (m2 h-1) ± 81g / (m2 h-1), qhia tias txheej thaiv txheej tseem ceeb heev.
Raws li lub moisturizing mechanism, ntau yam moisturizers nrog cov teebmeem zoo tau tsim. Feem ntau siv humectants suav nrog polyols, amides, lactic acid thiab sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucolipid, collagen, chitin derivatives thiab lwm yam.
(1) Polyols
Glycerin yog ib qho kua qab zib me ntsis, miscible hauv dej, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-amyl cawv, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol thiab Phenol thiab lwm yam tshuaj. Glycerin yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom siv moisturizing rau O / W-hom emulsification system hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce. Nws kuj yog ib qho tseem ceeb raw khoom rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Nws kuj tseem siv tau los ua cov moisturizer rau cov hmoov nplej uas muaj cov hmoov nplej, uas muaj cov mos mos thiab lubricating nyhuv ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Tsis tas li ntawd, glycerin kuj tau siv dav hauv cov tshuaj txhuam hniav hmoov thiab cov tshuaj pleev hydrophilic, thiab tseem yog ib feem tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom siv hydrogel.
Propylene glycol yog xim tsis muaj xim, pob tshab, me ntsis khov, hygroscopic kua. Nws yog miscible hauv dej, acetone, ethyl acetate thiab chloroform, thiab yaj hauv cawv thiab ether. Propylene glycol yog dav siv hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce. Nws tuaj yeem siv los ua tus neeg sawv cev ntub dej thiab moisturizer rau ntau yam khoom emulsified thiab cov khoom ua kua. Nws tuaj yeem siv ua softener thiab moisturizer rau cov tshuaj txhuam hniav thaum sib xyaw nrog glycerol thiab sorbitol. Nws tuaj yeem siv los ua tus tswj dej noo hauv cov khoom siv zas plaub hau.
1,3-Butanediol yog cov xim tsis muaj xim thiab tsw tsw ntxhiab nrog cov dej noo zoo, nws tuaj yeem nqus dej sib npaug li 12.5% (RH50%) lossis 38.5% (RH80%) ntawm nws tus kheej qhov hnyav. Nws tuaj yeem siv dav los ua moisturizer hauv tshuaj pleev, tshuaj pleev, tshuaj pleev thiab tshuaj txhuam hniav. Tsis tas li ntawd, 1,3-butanediol muaj cov nyhuv antibacterial. Sorbitol yog dawb crystalline hmoov ua los ntawm qabzib ua raw khoom. Nws muaj ib tug me ntsis qab zib saj. Sorbitol yog yooj yim soluble nyob rau hauv dej, me ntsis soluble nyob rau hauv ethanol, acetic acid, phenol thiab acetamide, tab sis insoluble nyob rau hauv lwm cov organic solvents. Sorbitol muaj hygroscopicity zoo, kev nyab xeeb, thiab kev ruaj ntseg tshuaj zoo. Nws tau siv dav hauv kev lag luam tshuaj niaj hnub. Nws tuaj yeem siv los ua cov khoom siv raw rau cov uas tsis yog-ionic surfactants thiab tseem tuaj yeem siv los ua cov tshuaj txhuam hniav thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce.
Polyethylene glycol yog dej-soluble polymer npaj los ntawm maj mam ntxiv ntawm ethylene oxide thiab dej los yog ethylene glycol. Nws kuj tseem tuaj yeem yaj nyob rau hauv feem ntau muaj zog polar organic solvents thiab muaj ib tug series ntawm qis mus rau nruab nrab molecular luj. Cov khoom lag luam tuaj yeem siv los ua cov dej-soluble colloidal muaj nyob rau hauv ntau yam tshuaj pleev ib ce. Polyethylene glycol yog dav siv nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab tshuaj industries vim nws zoo heev zog xws li dej solubility, physiological inertness, mildness, lubrication, daim tawv nqaij moisturization, thiab softness. Tsawg molecular hnyav polyethylene glycol muaj peev xwm nqus tau thiab khaws cov dej los ntawm qhov chaw, thiab nws yog plasticized thiab siv tau los ua ib qho humectant; Raws li tus txheeb ze molecular hnyav nce, nws hygroscopicity poob sharply. Lub cev hnyav molecular polyethylene glycol tuaj yeem siv dav hauv cov tshuaj niaj hnub, tshuaj, textile, papermaking thiab lwm yam lag luam ua cov roj nplua nyeem lossis softener.
(2) Lactic acid thiab sodium lactate
Lactic acid yog cov organic acid uas muaj dav hauv cov xwm txheej. Nws yog cov khoom kawg hauv cov metabolism hauv cov kab mob anaerobic. Nws muaj kev nyab xeeb thiab tsis muaj tshuaj lom. Lactic acid kuj yog lub ntsiab dej-soluble acid nyob rau hauv lub ntuj moisturizing yam (NMF) ntawm tib neeg epidermis, thiab nws cov ntsiab lus yog hais txog 12%. Lactic acid thiab lactate cuam tshuam rau cov ntaub so ntswg qauv ntawm cov khoom muaj protein ntau, thiab muaj qhov pom tseeb plasticizing thiab softening cuam tshuam rau cov proteins. Yog li, lactic acid thiab sodium lactate tuaj yeem ua rau daim tawv nqaij mos, o thiab nce elasticity. Nws yog ib qho zoo acidifier hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Cov carboxyl pawg ntawm lactic acid molecule muaj kev sib raug zoo rau cov plaub hau thiab tawv nqaij. Sodium lactate yog cov moisturizer zoo heev, thiab nws lub peev xwm moisturizing muaj zog dua li cov tshuaj moisturizers xws li glycerin. Lactic acid thiab sodium lactate tsim ib qho kev daws teeb meem uas tuaj yeem kho pH ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, lactic acid thiab sodium lactate feem ntau yog siv los ua cov tshuaj kho mob thiab cov tawv nqaij lossis cov plaub hau softeners, acidifiers los kho pH, cream thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce rau kev tu tawv nqaij, tshuaj zawv plaub hau thiab tshuaj kho plaub hau thiab lwm yam khoom tu plaub hau. Nws tseem tuaj yeem siv rau hauv cov khoom shaving thiab detergents.
(3) Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na luv luv) yog ib qho khoom tawg ntawm fibroin aggregates nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem epidermal granular. Cov ntsiab lus ntawm daim tawv nqaij lub ntuj moisturizing yog hais txog 12%. Nws txoj haujlwm physiological yog ua kom cov tawv nqaij stratum corneum mos. Cov ntsiab lus txo ntawm sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate hauv stratum corneum tuaj yeem ua rau daim tawv nqaij ntxhib thiab qhuav. Kev lag luam sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate yog xim tsis muaj xim, tsis muaj ntxhiab, me ntsis alkaline pob tshab aqueous tov, thiab nws cov hygroscopicity ntau dua li ntawm glycerin, propylene glycol, thiab sorbitol. Thaum tus txheeb ze av noo yog 65%, hygroscopicity siab li 56% tom qab 20 hnub, thiab hygroscopicity tuaj yeem ncav cuag 60% tom qab 30 hnub; thiab nyob rau hauv tib lub sijhawm, hygroscopicity ntawm glycerin, propylene glycol, thiab sorbitol yog 40% tom qab 30 hnub. , 30%, 10%. Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate feem ntau yog siv los ua cov tshuaj humectant thiab txias, siv hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, cov tshuaj pleev plhu, cov tshuaj pleev, tshuaj pleev, thiab tseem siv hauv cov tshuaj txhuam hniav thiab tshuaj zawv plaub hau.
(4) Hyaluronic acid
Thiab hyaluronic acid yog dawb amorphous khoom muab rho tawm los ntawm cov ntaub so ntswg tsiaj. Nws yog ib qho disaccharide rov ua dua chav tsev ntawm (1 → 3)-2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D (1 → 4)-OB3-D glucuronic acid Cov polymers muaj cov txheeb ze molecular loj ntawm 200,000 rau 1 lab. Hyaluronic acid yog lub ntuj biochemical moisturizer uas muaj zog moisturizing zog, muaj kev nyab xeeb thiab tsis muaj tshuaj lom, tsis muaj kev khaus rau tib neeg cov tawv nqaij. Hyaluronic acid yog soluble hauv dej tab sis insoluble hauv organic solvents. Vim lub stretching thiab o ntawm cov qauv molecular nyob rau hauv nws cov aqueous tov system, nws tseem muaj ib tug siab viscosity ntawm tsawg concentrations, thiab yuav khi ib tug loj npaum li cas ntawm cov dej, yog li nws muaj zoo moisturizing zog, siab viscoelasticity thiab siab permeability.
Hyaluronic acid tam sim no yog ib hom moisturizer nrog kev ua tau zoo hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, nws tuaj yeem muab cov nyhuv moisturizing ntawm daim tawv nqaij, ua rau daim tawv nqaij elastic thiab du, thiab ncua kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Ntau lub tuam txhab cov khoom siv hydrogel muaj hyaluronic acid los yog siv ua ke nrog nws, thiab tau ua tiav cov lus teb zoo tom qab tau qhia rau lub khw.
(5) Hydrolyzed collagen
Collagen tseem hu ua glial protein. Nws yog ib qho dawb fibrous protein uas tsim cov tsiaj tawv nqaij, pob txha mos, tendons, pob txha, hlab ntsha, pob txha thiab lwm yam ntaub so ntswg. Nws feem ntau suav rau ntau dua 30% ntawm tag nrho cov ntsiab lus protein ntawm cov tsiaj. Nws yog nyob rau hauv qhuav teeb meem ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab dermal ntaub so ntswg. Collagen suav txog ntau npaum li 90%.
Collagen yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov protein uas tsim cov tsiaj tawv nqaij thiab cov leeg. Nws muaj kev sib raug zoo nrog cov tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau. Cov tawv nqaij thiab cov plaub hau muaj qhov nqus tau zoo rau nws, tso cai rau nws nkag mus rau hauv cov plaub hau sab hauv, thiab lwm yam, qhia txog kev sib raug zoo thiab kev ua tau zoo. Thiab tom qab hydrolysis, polypeptide saw ntawm collagen muaj hydrophilic pawg xws li amino, carboxyl thiab hydroxyl, uas muaj peev xwm qhia tau zoo noo noo khaws cia rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Hydrolyzed collagen kuj muaj cov teebmeem ntawm kev txo cov tawv nqaij thiab tshem tawm wrinkles vim los ntawm ultraviolet rays. Yog li ntawd, lub luag hauj lwm ntawm hydrolyzed collagen yog tsuas yog xav nyob rau hauv moisturizing, affinity, freckle whitening, anti-aging thiab thiaj li nyob. Nyob rau hauv cov tsiaj cov ntaub so ntswg, collagen yog ib yam khoom uas yog insoluble nyob rau hauv dej, tab sis nws muaj zog muaj peev xwm los khi dej. Lub hydrolysis ntawm collagen tuaj yeem ua tiav los ntawm kev ua ntawm cov kua qaub, alkali lossis enzyme, thiab soluble hydrolyzed collagen tuaj yeem tau txais, uas yog dav siv hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab khoom kho mob zoo nkauj.
Lwm hom humectants muaj xws li chitin thiab nws cov derivatives, qabzib ester humectants, thiab cog humectants xws li aloe thiab algae.
Post lub sij hawm: Nov-17-2021